They are such lovely elegant looking plants, that grace many a home, the Amaryllis is not really a lily, and the common-called amaryllis is not even an amaryllis, but a Hypeastrum.

No matter what the correct name is it is most loved for its spectatular blossom production and because it can be grown year after year.

Every year in winter amaryllis bulbs appear in garden catalogues, plant and flower shops, nurseries and even supermarkets. They are sold in boxes with pots and peat moss, and planting instructions.

The supermarket is a good source of acquiring this plant, as I can attest to, I have had many lovely plants from there.

Many people are doubtful as to how to ensure future blooming when their amaryllis is finished flowering.

The time of planting is the time to ensure that your amaryllis will bloom for many years. Use a clay pot slightly larger than the bulb, and instead of the pure peat provided , plant the bulb in a mixture of two parts soil one of peat,and one of sand or perlite.

Be careful not to break the roots when planting and let about one third of the bulb protrude above the soil.

Water so that it is thouroughly moistened, and not again until the soil feels dry to the touch.

Sometimes the stalk will emerge before the leaves, and sometimes the leaves grow first. Generally, the stalk will need staking, cut the stalk off once flowers have wilted.

Feed your plant with a 15-30-15 fertilizer once every 2 weeks and provide good light.

Mid September-Mid October is the plant’s time of rest, it should be kept dry at room temperature.

Do not remove the leaves as the bulb stores the nutrients from them. You can remove them once they have dried up.

After two or three months the bulbs can be started again. Amaryllis can be taken outside and placed in a protected spot with the pot sunk into the ground.

A good bright spot in the house suits them well and with good care they should provide years of pleasure.

{This article was originally published in 2007}

Buy only dormant bulbs that show little if any, root development and no top growth other than a pale fat bud. (Lilies, however, are never really dormant; their bulbs often have fleshy roots attached.)

Look for bulbs that have their papery skins (called tunics) intact. These contain natural compounds that inhibit disease and premature sprouting. Choose bulbs that are packaged in materials that permit air to enter, the package should have some kind of ventilation to achieve this. If the bulbs are packed in plastic bags, then they will often rot.

Select bulbs that are firm with few wrinkles and no soft spots. You may find that healthy bulbs seem heavier than their size suggests. Avoid bulbs with cuts, dark or water-soaked spots, or colored or scabby areas.

Tips for Planting Bulbs to Create a Beautiful, Healthy Display

Try planting your bulbs in drifts. A drift is a thin, longish line of plants, drawn diagonally across a straight border or placed in a slender bow in a long bed. It spreads the flowers in such a way that even the sparest bloom will seem abundant. Twelve to eighteen plants make a sustaining drift that gives continuity to a border. Fifty to a hundred bulbs make a wonderful drift, but you can also attain a similar look with fewer bulbs. A drift is inclined to draw the eye from one end of it to another, and works really well when one type of flower is featured.

Handle bulbs well when planting to avoid injuries that provide access to diseases, and remove problem plants quickly to keep pests and disease from spreading. Always let bulb foliage die back naturally to allow food production for growth and flowering in subsequent years. Clean up flower beds in fall to remove plant debris that often shelters pests and diseases.

Healthy bulbs and good culture go a long way toward successful plantings. Happy gardening!

{this article was originally published in 2008}

It is time to order your spring flowering bulbs. Early birds have already taken advantage of summer sales and free shipping, but it is not too late!

For the best quality bulbs, order from catalogs specially geared toward flowering bulbs. Local hardware stores and garden centers, as well as the big box retailers will sell some bulbs, and they might be cheap, but they will also be of inferior quality. For the best of the best, try catalogs such as ColorBlends and Dutch Gardens. If you need to purchase locally, look for firm bulbs that do not smell musty or show signs of rot. It is best if there is no green growth showing. (It is a different story for summer flowering bulbs, but that is a topic for summer!)

Selecting Spring Flowering Bulbs

Tulips and Daffodils are the two most popular types of spring flowering bulbs; however, there are hundreds of different varieties. You will want to consider your gardening habits when selecting bulbs. Do you want to plant new bulb displays every year, or would you rather build on an ever-expanding bulb garden? You might want to plant with both approaches in mind. Close to the house, set aside an area for bulbs that last only one season, such as tulips. That way, every year, you can plant a splashy new design in an area that sees a lot of foot traffic. Further away from the house, or near the front door, try daffodils, crocus, aconite, leucojum and other bulbs for naturalizing. These bulbs will slowly spread, and you can add to the display each year.

Keeping Animals out of your Bulb Garden

The most frustrating thing for most serious gardeners is spending hours of backbreaking time planting bulbs and then going out to get the morning paper only to be greeted by the sight of all of the bulbs half eaten on top of the soil. And, the fun only begins there. If your bulbs manage to make it to the spring, there are plenty of creatures that enjoy eating the leaves and flowers. What is the desperate gardener to do? That depends upon your level of dedication, and your interest in planting specific bulbs.

Almost every bulb is equally susceptible to digging and gnawing rodents. There are two reliable ways of keeping critters from digging up and munching your bulbs. You can buy a giant container of ground red pepper and sprinkle it in with the bulbs. You can also plant your bulbs in a chicken-wire “capsule.” The pepper is more of a deterrent–pests don’t like the taste. The other is a physical barrier. The bulb foliage can grow up through the wire, but the rodents cannot extract the bulbs.

Spring brings its own challenges for bulb gardeners. If you do not want to go to extreme measures to protect your bulbs, you will need to plant rodent-resistant types. Daffodils, iris and grape hyacinth are your best options. Animals just don’t enjoy the taste of those bulbs. If you must have tulips and other tasty rodent treats, the spring will require vigilance. You can try pepper as a deterrent in the spring. There are also plenty of liquid and powder deterrents.